I am going to assume for the purpose of this and this series of blogs that this is your first cat ever and that you don't have a dog. I will assume that you might have younger children. I'll talk more about introducing a second cat into your home or introducing a cat into a home with a dog in other blogs.
Moving to a new home, even from a shelter, can be a stressful experience for a cat. You will want to make the introduction as calm and as friendly as possible. I'd recommend, if you've picked out a cat that you ask the shelter or where ever you've found it to hold the cat until you can prep your home first. What will you need to have in your home?
1. Litterbox, litter scoop and cat litter. Type of litterbox? I would base the size on the size of your pet and also on the space you have allotted for a litterbox. My preference is covered. As for type of litter, I would buy a small container (enough to fill the bottom of the litterbox to about 1-1 1/2" depth) to begin with and work to see what your cat prefers.
2. Food and Water Dishes. I'd recommend one food dish for dry food and another for canned. A fairly big water dish, but not huge is also a good idea. While the containers that hold several days worth of water are tempting, I'd only recommend on of those as a back-up water source. I prefer to ensure that my cat has fresh water each day.
3. Cat/kitten food. While there have been a lot of improvements to pet food over the years, I firmly believe that you get what you pay for. I've had good success with the Science Diet brand and also with Purina One and Purina Pro Plan. Iams is also a high quality brand that will give your pet the appropriate nutrition needed. I would select both dry food and canned food. These typically reflect an age range to provide the nutrition needed for the age of your pet. I would initially purchase a small bag of the dry food and a couple of different cans of wet food. Why? While most cats aren't overly finicky about the food they prefer, they can be. My cat Missy turned up her nose at Iams, as a kitten, but loved the Science Diet. Additionally, once you take your new pet in for its first vet visit, your vet will likely have a brand that they prefer.
4. Pet carrier. When I had my first cat, she would ride in the car, sitting across the back of my neck while I drove or on my lap. However,unbeknownst to me at the time, this was risky for myself, for her, for other drivers on the road and for my car. A pet loose in a vehicle can cause an accident. In the event of an accident, they could get loose from your vehicle and run into oncoming traffic. They could be thrown from a seat and be injured the same as an unsecured person. The cat could also cause injury to a person in the vehicle as could any unsecured, suddenly flying object (mind you, a flying object WITH claws and teeth - even the gentlest cat has been known to bite or claw when panicked). After almost being involved in an accident with her in the car, I resolved from that point on to keep my pets secured. Aside from safety, some cats have been known to become car sick. Trust me when I say that it is FAR easier to clean a cat carrier than the upholstery of your vehicle.
5. One or two cat toys. Don't go overboard here. Try one or two until you learn what the cat prefers.
6. Cat treats. Cats CAN be trained as I will discuss in a future blog and positive reinforcement is the best way.
7. Spray bottle. Unfortunately, some times a little non-harmful negative reinforcement could be required.
8. Cat collar. If you have a kitten, especially a young one (6-12 weeks), I HIGHLY recommend a collar with a bell on it. All cats tend to get underfoot on occasion, but more so kittens. A bell collar (while irritating at night) helps ensure you have an idea of where your new pet is. For an older cat, you might want a collar that will automatically release if it gets caught on something. When sizing a collar, you want it to be big enough to be able to slip a finger or two under it. A collar should not be tight against the pet's neck. If it is, the collar is too small.
9. Scratching post. Don't go whole hog on this. There are many varieties of scratching posts out there, some running a couple of hundred dollars. Each cat has its own scratching preference. I'd try an inexpensive cardboard one first as these are usually cheaper. I've also had good experience with sisal and less with carpeted.
10. A cat bed. Again, don't go whole hog on this. I've had mixed success with what my cats are willing to sleep on and have spent more than I care to admit on pet beds only to have them prefer the floor or an old shirt.
11. Catnip. A sprinkling of catnip can help direct your new pet to their new bedding as well as being a nice treat for them in general.
12. Pet stain remover for carpets and a urine neutralizing solution. (I like Nature's Miracle).
13. Pet comb or brush. Grooming your pet helps with bonding as well as helping cut back on the amount of hair you find in your home and cuts back on hairballs.
14. Pet nail clippers. Obviously, this will depend on whether or not you pet currently has claws or not. I've found that the clippers shaped like manicure scissors, but with a wider,rounded opening for your pet's nail seem to be the easiest to work with. You can use human nail clippers, but these tend to squeeze your pet's nail more and cause some discomfort for your pet, making it more difficult to work with them.
15. Harness/leash. This last item is only recommended if you will be taking your pet out-of-doors. I don't recommend allowing your pet to roam freely outside even in a fenced in yard EVER. A harness is the best way to place a cat on a leash/lead.
Before you hit the store, have you picked out a vet? Sit down with your yellow pages, get recommendations from friends or ask the shelter or where ever you found your pet, who they recommend. Make an appointment to bring your pet to them. Please also note, most vets will allow you to visit and tour their office. It is very important that not only do you find a high quality vet (high quality does not always equate to high cost), but also one that YOU and your pet are comfortable with. But....my pet is already up-to-date on their shots and doesn't need to see a vet for a year, why go now? This is a terrific opportunity for you and your pet to interact with the vet and not experience the pain/stress of shots or blood tests. It is also an excellent opportunity for your vet to see your pet when it is healthy and allows your vet to baseline their health. Additionally, should something happen to your pet, it is much easier to have a vet lined up before an emergency or illness than to scramble to find one. (Side note on this: please also make sure you know where the nearest emergency vet is and have their number handy.)
So...vet visit scheduled, shopping list now in hand...go to your local Pet Supply store. Make sure while you are there that you get a bonus card if they have them because you WILL be back there.
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